Here are the pros and cons of both a low and high front end. Hopefully it will contribute to some objective discussion on a very fractious issue.
Low Stack Height
While this provides for a very aerodynamic and professional looking setup, it can be an uncomfortable position that may lead to a sore back and compromise your ability to descend steep technical sections of off-road terrain.
High Stack Height
A comfortable position that affords great visibility (head's always up), however it can make your bike look like a praying mantis in a wheelchair.
If you’ve chosen to take your cycling in the downward direction, incorporating a low stack height, then some helpful hints and tips are provided in the article mentioned above.
If, on the other hand, you’d prefer to raise the bar (literally) of your cycling to impressive new heights, then look no further than the fine example below, photographed in Melbourne’s always fascinating inner-north.
The owner of this bike has pretty much got the high front end nailed.
1. Add a SATORI Heads Up 4 steerer tube extender. It’s a similar concept to seafood extender in that it makes your steerer tube go further, but without the expense of a new fork (or actual crab meat).
2. Add some spacers above the SATORI Heads Up 4 steerer tube extender.
3. Add an adjustable stem.
4. Push the limits of your adjustable stem by setting it to an almost vertical position. I shudder to think what this kind of near-zero-offset handlebar positioning will do to your bike handling but try not to let practicalities like this get in the way of your quest for elevation. In fact, aim to get your stem angle to match your head tube angle for maximum symmetry.
5. Tilt your handlebars skywards. The shift/brake levers can be re-purposed as fighter-jet-style dual joysticks, rather than the typical ergonomic bicycle hand grips that they were initially intended as.
6. Add a set of secondary CrossTop brake levers as you’ll be unable to actuate the regular shift/brake levers (which are now pointing to the sky) without some advanced degree of upper-extremity contortion.
7. With an elevated position like this, you’ll obviously not want to lower yourself to stooping for a typical frame-mounted bidon so rig up a contraption that allows you to mount your bidon holder in a more appropriate position near the dashboard. In this case the steerer tube-mounted bidon holder bracket also serves as a handy extra steerer tube spacer.
With this nifty adaptor you can keep your bidon high and your stem even higher!
Another thing to keep in mind is the type of bike that you are starting with. It’s all well and good to extend your steerer tube, add spacers and tilt up your handlebars, but if your bike has a short head tube, then many of these gains will be rendered obsolete. Bike head tubes can obviously vary greatly…from short…
…to long…
...to confusingly indeterminate…
Where'd that head tube go?
For reference, the bike featured in this article is made by Asian handmade boutique manufacturer Giant and its model name is “Revolt”—which is an interesting choice of name given the feelings of nausea that sightings of this bike tend to stimulate.
The Revolting bike transformation is quite remarkable.
Just getting on board this Clydesdale could be considered an achievement.
Copying geometry (for daily use) from sports is plain stupid. If something suits (on daily basis) You then You should stick to it. Many "bike fitters" and many trainers tend to copy others and all back banding is done to minimise aero drag. When someone is cycling at moderate speed then aerodynamics doesn't matter. For daily use it is much better to have healthy position, not "aerodynamic one". In case someone wants to become aero from time to time it is good idea to mount second handlebar.
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